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NYEPI
THE BALINESE SILENCE

MELASTI,
THREE DAYS BEFORE THE BALINESE SILENCE
Every
religion or culture all over the world has their own way to define and
celebrate their new year. For example, the Chinese have the Imlek year
and to celebrate it, have, as they called it in their own language, "Gong
Xi Fat Choy". The Moslem societies have their Muharam year, and any
of the people over the world using the Gregorian calendar, celebrate the
New Year on January 1st.
The
same thing also occurs in Bali, however the Balinese use many different
calendar systems. They have adopted the Gregorian calendar for business
and government purposes. But for the endless procession of holy days,
temple anniversaries, celebrations, sacred dances, building houses, wedding
ceremonies, death and cremation processes and other activities that define
Balinese life, they have two calendar systems. The first is the Pawukon
(from the word Wuku which means week) and Sasih (which is means month).
Wuku consists of 30 items starting from Sinta, the first Wuku and end
up with the Watugunung the last one. The Pawukon, a 210-day ritual calendar
brought over from Java in the 14th century, is a complex cycle of numerological
conjunctions that provides the basic schedule for ritual activities on
Bali. Sasih, a parallel system of Indian origin, is a twelve month lunar
calendar that starts with the vernal equinox and is equally important
in determining when to pay respect to the Gods.
Westerners
open the New Year in revelry, however, in contrast, the Balinese open
their New Year in silence. This is called Nyepi Day, the Balinese day
of Silence, which falls on the day following the dark moon of the spring
equinox, and opens a new year of the Saka Hindu era which began in 78
A.D.Nyepi is a day to make and keep the balance of nature. It is based
on the story of when King Kaniska I of India was chosen in 78 A.D. The
King was famous for his wisdom and tolerance for the Hinduism and Buddhism
societies. In that age, Aji Saka did Dharma Yatra (the missionary tour
to promote and spread Hinduism) to Indonesia and introduce the Saka year.
In
Balinese Hinduism, the relinquishment is accomplished into several parts
of worship. There are four rules known as Catur Brata Penyepian which
guide the Hindus to refrain a while from worldly and physical activities.
First is the principle called Amati Geni. People are not allowed to set
lights and fire for the whole day, that includes not burning or setting
a stove on, and they can’t cook for meals. Along with this purpose,
they abstain from eating and drinking for 24 hours. In deeper reflection,
this symbolizes turning the fire off in the five senses of the soul, along
with any unscrupulous emotions. It brings up the other sensitivity from
within one’s spirit, and it enhances the quality of life.
The other actions of turning down corporal dealings are; not doing any
work at all which is called Amati Karya, not going anywhere (Amati Lelungan),
and avoiding any entertainment forms (Amati Lelanguan).
The
lead upto Nyepi day is as follows:
Melasti
or Mekiyis or Melis (three days before Nyepi)
Melasti
is meant to clean the pratima or arca or pralingga (statue), with symbols
that help to concentrate the mind in order to become closer to God. The
ceremony is aimed to clean all nature and its content, and also to take
the Amerta (the source for eternal life) from the ocean or other water
resources (ie lake, river, etc). Three days before Nyepi, all the effigies
of the Gods from all the village temples are taken to the river in long
and colourful ceremonies. There, they have are bathed by the Neptune of
the Balinese Lord, the God Baruna, before being taken back home to their
shrines.
Tawur
Kesanga (the day before Nyepi)
Exactly one day before Nyepi, all villages in Bali hold a large exorcism
ceremony at the main village cross road, the meeting place of demons.
They usually make Ogoh-ogoh (the fantastic monsters or evil spirits or
the Butha Kala made of bamboo) for carnival purposes. The Ogoh-ogoh monsters
symbolize the evil spirits surrounding our environment which have to be
got rid of from our lives . The carnivals themselves are held all over
Bali following sunset. Bleganjur, a Balinese gamelan music accompanies
the procession. Some are giants taken from classical Balinese lore. All
have fangs, bulging eyes and scary hair and are illuminated by torches.The
procession is usually organised by the Seka Teruna, the youth organisation
of Banjar. When Ogoh-ogoh is being played by the Seka Teruna, everyone
enjoys the carnival. In order to make a harmonic relation between human
being and God, human and human, and human and their environments, Tawur
Kesanga is performed in every level of society, from the people's house.
In the evening, the Hindus celebrating Ngerupuk, start making noises and
light burning torches and set fire to the Ogoh-ogoh in order to get the
Bhuta Kala, evil spirits, out of our lives.
Nyepi
On Nyepi day itself, every street is quiet - there are nobody doing their
normal daily activities. There is usually Pecalangs (traditional Balinese
security man) who controls and checks for street security. Pecalang wear
a black uniform and a Udeng or Destar (a Balinese traditional "hat"
that is usually used in ceremony). The Pecalangs main task is not only
to control the security of the street but also to stop any activities
that disturb Nyepi. No traffic is allowed, not only cars but also people,
who have to stay in their own houses. Light is kept to a minimum or not
at all, the radio or TV is turned down and, of course, no one works. Even
love making, this ultimate activity of all leisure times, is not supposed
to take place, nor even attempted. The whole day is simply filled with
the barking of a few dogs, the shrill of insect and is a simple long quiet
day in the calendar of this otherwise hectic island. On Nyepi the world
expected to be clean and everything starts anew, with Man showing his
symbolic control over himself and the "force" of the World,
hence the mandatory religious control.
Ngembak
Geni (the day after Nyepi)
Ngembak is the day when Catur Berata Penyepian is over and Hindus societies
usually visit to forgive each other and doing the Dharma Canthi. Dharma
Canthi are activities of reading Sloka, Kekidung, Kekawin, etc.(ancient
scripts containing songs and lyrics).
The
other actions of turning down corporal dealings are; not doing any work
at all which is called Amati Karya, not going anywhere (Amati Lelungan),
and avoiding any entertainment forms (Amati Lelanguan).
On
Nyepi Day, the Hindus stay at home, but they are not supposed to listen
to the radio, watch TV, speak to each other, answer telephones, or take
in guests. Instead, they should lay and meditate in darkness, or have
prayers at their own pura called merajan (little house-shrine in the front
part of the home) to work out on the inner part of their spiritual life.
It is very quiet on the street and it is impossible to go anywhere even
for other communities who are exempt from the rite. The Ngurah Rai International
Airport and all harbor accesses to Bali are closed. The airport will only
allow overfly flights, transfer, or emergency landing, while public services
such as hospitals and transportations for the sick and other emergency
cases will be on the restricted judgment of village chiefs.
As a lot of visitors could not do anything else in the island, they will
have to stay in the hotel and find their own activities day.
The Hindus in Bali are strongly religious. All ages, except babies seem
to be wholeheartedly bound to the observance of the prayer. Women wear
kebaya and have their hair twisted while men appear in white with udang
(traditional headdress) on their head. They will march under golden yellow
sunshades which are meant for ritual ceremonies.
To set up the execution of Catur Brata Penyepian, all figures of worship
and sacred utensils must be cleaned up to the oceans in Melis or Melasti
ceremony. Upon the cleaning, Melasti is aimed to wash up human soul from
dirt and sins. The Hindus believe that it is the power of nature that
will take all the agony and refresh the soul. It is important to sip something
from the ocean, that ocean is full of waves, just like the world life,
where humankind should find the essence of life from within.
The procession itself is a rich and special eye-catching event for the
tourists, especially before the D-day blackout. Bali could be fussed with
traffic jams up to a day before Nyepi. In grand puras, women flooded the
shrines bringing offerings on tall baskets on their head. Some people
walk stretching out a long sheet of yellow and white cloth known as “The
Bridge of God”.
Gamelan (brass musical instruments) and barong (kind of Balinese mystical
puppet) are also the sacrosanct figures to scour on the beach. The gamelan
bands march and play along the street, escorting barongs, fruit, rice,
and natural food transported in garnished carriers, heading to the head-waterfront
puras such as Tanah Lot, Goa Lawah, or Kuta. After prayers and rituals
confronting the sea, preachers will splash all the equipments with the
holy water, and bless them to the next use for the following year.
And one day before Nyepi, there is the Tawur Kasanga ceremony. The ceremony
is held in every place of the island, from the front yard through the
city pura.
Every house has merajan to adorn with Panca Warna offerings. Sanggah cucuk
of bamboo cane are positioned against the door to display colorful gifts
of sacrifice, such as ‘ketupat’ (cooked rice in square of
coconut leaves), tumpeng (cone rice), chicken and other food, and rice
wine, liquor, and water presented under the bamboo.
This Tawur Kasanga is aimed to please the natural environment, to inspire
the Hindus to always care for the ecosystem, as that’s what a balance
in life should be like. According to Wiana in his book Yadnya and Bhakti,
tawur means to return or to pay on something; that people should also
give nature a sincere present, as human beings seem to take so much from
the environment all the time. Hindus are taught to let go of the materialism
and avarice but to make it simple: to take but also to give.
In parts on cities, tawur will continue with Ngrupuk as the sun goes down.
Here, every member of the family has his and her own ritual to start noise
around the house bringing torches and sprinkle rice over the alleyways.
In cities and bigger villages, people parade a huge sculpture called ogoh-ogoh,
a colorfully clad wooden scary face representing the supernatural giant
Bhuta Kala or the power of evil. The giant will be danced in the vibrant
gamelan music and soared around the village for a while. To the end of
the rite, they will blaze it on fire to get rid of the wicked power represented
by the giant figure.
Then the next day, when the tranquility comes, Nyepi is really a solitude
day. A day renouncing from the normal clamor is meant for looking through
a more advanced quality in the future life. If one could see it through,
he or she will be able to let go of the wrong, penetrate the peace into
his or her mind, and start the dharma, something that most people dream
of a new life.
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